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How to Do a Spring Hive Inspection (Step-by-Step)

Frame by frame — exactly what to look for and what to do about it

The spring hive inspection is one of the most important visits you'll make all year. After months of winter, you finally get to see how your colony came through — how many bees survived, whether the queen is laying, how much food they have left, and whether any problems are developing.

When to inspect

Don't open the hive on a cold, grey, wet day — chilling open brood even briefly can kill it, and cold bees are defensive bees. Wait for air temperature above 55°F (10°C), no rain or strong wind, and mid-morning to early afternoon when foragers are out. In the Pacific Northwest this usually means waiting for a weather break — late March to mid-April in most locations.

What you'll need

Lit smoker, hive tool, protective gear (veil, jacket, gloves), a notepad or phone for notes, and spare frames if you're planning to add space.

Step 1: Light your smoker and approach calmly

Give your smoker two or three puffs under the entrance before you start. Wait 30 seconds, then puff a little smoke under the lid before opening. Move slowly and deliberately — sudden movements agitate bees far more than smoke does. A few well-placed puffs of cool smoke go further than a constant cloud.

Step 2: Remove the outer and inner covers

Pry up the inner cover gently with your hive tool, working around the edges before lifting. Set covers aside face-down so you're not setting them on any clustered bees. If you see bees running rapidly across the top bars or hear a rising hiss, add more smoke and wait before proceeding.

Step 3: Assess the cluster size

Before pulling frames, look down between them. A strong spring colony should cover 6–8 frames or more. A cluster on only 3–4 frames came through weakly and may need support. A cluster on 10+ frames means they're crowded and you should plan to add a box soon.

Step 4: Check food stores first

Start with the outermost frames, which typically hold honey stores. Look for capped honey — light tan or white cappings that feel dry to the touch. Each fully capped frame holds roughly 6–8 pounds of honey. A colony needs 20–30 pounds of stores to get through until reliable spring forage arrives. If stores look thin, plan to feed 1:1 sugar syrup until the dandelions are blooming reliably.

Also look for pollen — coloured, packed granules near the brood nest. Fresh pollen coming in is a great sign.

Step 5: Find the brood nest and assess the queen's work

Move inward toward the centre frames, where the brood nest lives.

Eggs — tiny white rice-grain shapes standing upright in the base of cells. Only visible in good light — hold the frame so sunlight shines across it at an angle. If you see eggs, your queen was laying within the last 3 days.

Young larvae — small white grubs curled in the base of cells, floating in royal jelly. They should be pearly white and glistening, not brown or twisted.

Capped brood — healthy capped worker brood has uniform, slightly domed cappings in a solid pattern. Scattered cappings with many empty cells (shotgun brood) can indicate disease.

The queen herself — larger than workers, with a longer tapered abdomen. Don't stress if you can't find her; confirmed eggs are proof enough she was present recently.

Concerns: no eggs and no larvae (possible queenlessness — wait 7 days before intervening); sunken, discoloured, or perforated cappings (possible disease — consult a local mentor); brown or twisted larvae (possible European Foulbrood); sour or rotting smell (serious disease concern).

Step 6: Check for swarm preparations

In spring, colonies preparing to swarm build queen cells — elongated, peanut-shaped cells that often hang from the bottom edges of frames. Finding capped queen cells in a strong, crowded colony means a swarm may be days away. Options include adding a super, performing an artificial swarm split, or removing queen cells to buy time.

Step 7: Assess varroa levels

Spring is a critical time for a baseline varroa reading. An alcohol wash on approximately 300 bees gives a reliable mite count. Below 2 mites per 100 bees is acceptable in early spring; above 3% warrants treatment planning.

Step 8: Close up and take notes

Replace frames in the same order you removed them. Close covers gently. Write down: cluster size, food stores status, brood pattern, queen status, any concerns, and what you plan to do next.

SituationAction
Strong colony, good brood, adequate storesContinue 14-day inspections
Light storesBegin 1:1 sugar syrup feeding
Crowded colony (8+ frames)Add a super or prepare a split
Queen cells presentConsult a mentor; consider swarm management
No eggs, no larvae, no queenWait 7 days, inspect again
Shotgun brood or foul smellContact your state apiarist
Varroa above 2–3%Plan treatment

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